The smog and noise of Mexico City feel a world away as flotillas of trajineras, brightly decorated wooden gondolas, glide up and down the cool canals of Xochimilco. The quiet network of waterways, on ...

Legend has it the axolotl was not always an amphibian. Long before it became Mexico’s most beloved salamander and efforts to prevent its extinction flourished, it was a sneaky god. “It’s an ...